Nicola In Chile: Tierra Patagonia, Tierra Chiloe and Mallin Colorado
I’ve recently returned from a wonderful three weeks in the long thin country, concentrating on the varied southern regions. Travelling to Patagonia in early October always carries a bit of a risk of even more inclement weather and ‘early season’ vibes. What really struck me, though, was why this time of year is also great – the ease at getting around, the lack of queues on trails and the reinforced idea of why we visit Patagonia – the expanse and space – it truly felt like it was just ours. Beginnings of seasons offer eager to please faces greeting you at every turn, newly set up signs, trails and equipment as well as unafraid wildlife getting used to their warmer surroundings again. October, November and March, April were often cited as being the locals’ favourite times of year to be in this region.
We started in Tierra Patagonia, I flew down from Santiago with 4 enthusiastic travel designers (despite some lingering colds from the autumnal northern hemisphere!) and we were treated to one of the best views of volcanoes, lakes and Andes I’ve seen (and I’ve done that journey a lot). They jutted out of the ground, beside beautiful dark lakes, then gave way to mountain ranges which then merged into enormous ice fields whose glacial fingers spread down across the Aysen region and then more southerly into Los Glaciares National Park. We even got a glimpse of the Towers before landing in windy Puerto Natales.
Our arrival at the hotel was one of very warm welcoming smiles and greetings. Nicholas, resident manager and Kineret, deputy manager went out of their way to make sure we were relaxed and cared for.
The following three days followed in the same vein, the excursions were carefully laid out for us, with no pressure to choose one over another, we experienced almost every corner of the park in different ways and gathered together in the evenings at our dinner table (which grew larger every night as we made new friends) to chat about our relevant experiences out in the wilderness, while dining on delicious gourmet dishes. We bathed in the warm waters of the infinity pool, looking out at the ever present granite massif – a picture perfect view from anywhere in the hotel – and felt like we could stay forever.
However, more excitement and a change of scenery called and we flew north to Puerto Montt for our visit to Tierra Chiloe*. Nestled on the eastern shores of the island of Chiloe, only 30 minutes drive from Castro, the hotel sits looking out across the bay of Pullao on one side and out to the ocean on the other. Towards the back, it is surrounded by lush green fields and forest. Large flocks of birds sweep across the view (again, the trademark floor to ceiling windows on the outer side of the hotel create a feeling of floating above the ground) at regular intervals. We’re fed and watered here incredibly well – with local, traditional dishes and delicious flavours – and gifted warm ‘pantuflas’ (hand knitted slippers) to wear in the communal areas when not out exploring.
We venture out in our two full days here to visit local food markets, ride around the hills on e-bikes, ride horses on the shoreline and visit a local village using their traditional fishing boat turned comfortable ‘cruise’ – the Williche. Some of us were even lucky enough to be surrounded by an excited pod of Austral dolphins as we explored some bays by zodiac, while the kayakers marvelled as magellanic penguins ducked in and out of the water.
Reality called in the form of the vibrant and welcoming travel show Remote LA in Puyehue. My first time here (Simon took a fallow year to attend The Long Run AGM in South Africa) was everything I was expecting and more. I had heard so much about this lovely community of like minded people and projects – and I instantly felt like part of the family. It was wonderful to meet so many people I’d heard so much about, make new friends and connections and reconnect with those I hadn’t seen for years. We had eight of our partners in attendance, as well as many other industry friends and we walked through forests, bathed in hot pools and shared a drink together sharing ideas and inspiring stories.
Following four great days of this, I took two travel designers back south again! This time to the remote and wild region of Aysen to explore the area around Mallin Colorado, which sits on the western end of Lake General Carrera, near Puerto Guadal. We were met at the windy and lonely airport of Balmaceda by Paula and her sister Anita who took us on the spectacular journey along the Carretera Austral to the lodge. This transfer normally takes four hours door to door, but on a journey like this where the sun is shining and the mountainous scenery gets more majestic and impressive with each turn, there’s no rush to get anywhere, stopping regularly to soak up the expansive panoramic views.
Mallin Colorado was built 35 years ago by Paula’s parents and brother after they discovered this piece of land had a sunny and mild microclimate compared to the regions further south and north. The original log cabins still stand proud with warm comfortable beds, wood burners for when the temperatures drop and huge windows with views of the lake. About 8 years ago, 6 extra rooms were created in the Lenga building, all with views to the lake and with a warm relaxing communal area separating the two ‘wings’. The clubhouse is where you find the heart of the lodge and where all the meals take place – with a constant fire and friendly hospitality. It was with great pleasure that we met and ate with Paula and more of her family (parents and brother) and got to hear stories of their adventures in the region and how it all began.
These days took us to marvel at the marble caves on the lake, hiking up trails with branches newly discovered by the lodge’s gaucho who proudly told us we would see the most spectacular views of the region, which I’d have a hard time contesting! and to the rushing blue and grey waters of the Baker and Neff confluence before we arrived at the contrasting wide open valleys of Patagonia Park.
We were lucky with bright sunny days, meaning a cold local artisanal beer (and even a dip in the lake for one of our group!) were welcome after a full day of exploration. Although in any Patagonian region you’ll find the weather changes constantly, the Aysen is sheltered by two mountain ranges and can offer a very different environment – and one which is still relatively untouched!
If you’d like any more information on any of the properties or areas mentioned, please don’t hesitate to get in touch, as I can talk about my travels and impressions for a lot longer than this blog post! 🙂 [email protected]
*The changes at Tierra came about after this trip had been confirmed. While it won’t be part of the Tierra brand following this season, it will still operate as a high-end, experience-led hotel managed by the Purcell family who own Ski Portillo and are the original owners of Tierra Hotels.
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